Where Does Vintage Clothing Come From – Truly?

We all know that many people love vintage clothing because we feel it tells us stories. Equally rich are the stories behind how vintage pieces find their way to market.

The resources that go into finding worthy pieces are beyond what the average bear could withstand. When a client discovers a must-have piece that was hard-won, it’s incredibly rewarding work. This is not hyperbole: one woman broke down in tears after serendipitously finding the exact same purse given to her by her father when she was a child in the 1950s.

For the casual hunter of genuine vintage, the modi operandi are usually:

- regular visits to a circle of thrift shops
- eBay, etsy
- the occasional garage or estate sale
- accepting an item that belonged to the just-deceased aunt or uncle of an acquaintance who knows that, you know, you like that “old stuff” and they thought of you

None of the above are consistent methods for amassing a collection that allows one to be a reliable source of good vintage. Additionally, you will be asked to do this many times over. Vintage dealers are not public lending libraries. These pieces are for purchase, not rental, and you will be asked again and again.

Imagine, if you will -

The text arrives at 3:00 pm. A stylist is looking for enough suits, shirts, and accessories to outfit someone for a 5-city promotional tour for their upcoming film. And can you get them out the door the next day?

The answer: you do it, because you can.

And the reason that you can fulfill this need is that you have driven tens of thousands of miles, gone through hundreds of closets, basements, and unspeakable places to create a collection that is sought after.

Click here to view the collection if you haven’t already. Perhaps with a new understanding and appreciation. Below for your enjoyment: real photos, real people, real vintage. These are photos of individuals whose estates I have been lucky – and industrious – enough to have reviewed.

1930s dapper dandy - 6'2", eyes of blue. Could you equal that inseam?

An original genuine Range Rider, never went out-of-doors without a hat

Where vintage comes from

Cecilia. Next time you're having your portrait taken, remember Cecilia.

Schiaparelli Prada Met Show – What Will You Be Wearing?

A vintage Elsa Schiaparelli jacket, 1938

Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations – perhaps stretching it, putting these two designers side by side in a manufactured theoretical conversation. I would argue that every fashion designer owes a debt to Elsa Schiaparelli. If it has to be a living contemporary designer or fashion house, the Met chose well in choosing Miuccia Prada. They’re sure to have long lines at the Costume Institute 2012 spring show. The Costume Institute is pulling out the big guns for this show, close on the heels of the blockbuster Alexander McQueen show of 2011: Carey Mulligan (fashion’s It Girl du jour), Baz Luhrman (king of Over The Top), and even Jeff Bezos and Amazon.com.

Lobster gowns and surrealist imagery are what get most of the attention, but make no mistake: Elsa Schiaparelli was a mistress of fine detail and tailoring, as epitomized in this winter 1938 Elsa Schiaparelli jacket of shocking pink and green striped silk with embroidery by Lesage.

The Big Question is: what will we see worn at the opening gala?

Vintage Charles Knox Hatters Straw Hat Size 7 1/2

vintage Charles Knox Hatters straw hat size 7.5

Hen’s teeth. Frog’s fur. Vintage men’s hats in large sizes. All of the preceding items are rare, if extant. This vintage Knox hat in size 7 1/2 is a relative Holy Grail in the universe of vintage men’s hats.

Rich hued and finely constructed straw hat by Charles Knox is not your most usual in men’s hats, both for the fine quality straw and the ample size – a rare 7 1/2.

Color is a deep warm brown with a red cast. We have added a deadstock, mint, unused wide chestnut brown hat band that suits it perfectly (band came from a still extant menswear store in the Midwest).

See more detail pictures and snap up this vintage Knox hat in size 7 1/2.

Vintage 1960s Red Leather Coat & Purse Bonnie Cashin Style

vintage red leather coat & purse

Bonnie Cashin pioneered the oh-so clever matching leather coat and purse set idea with such genius that she integrated the purse into the coat, creating a revolutionary look. This vintage red leather coat and purse setis a tribute to that novel idea.

Dating somewhere between New Look and Cashin-mod, tomato red trench coat has a charming pleated skirt and lady-like full cuffed sleeves. Soft leather and fully lined. Matching purse has a unique bellows shape that pulls together with the narrow straps, also fully lined.

See more detailed photos and purchase this vintage 1960s red leather coat and purse.

Vintage Christian Dior Fur Jacket, c. 1960, Broadtail & Mink

vintage Christian Dior fur jacket

1950′s fur- you can’t swing a, well, you know, without hitting grandma’s or mother’s 1950s mink hanging dejectedly in a closet when on a vintage buying appointment. An extremely high percentage of house calls include the standard 1950s mink coat, that one that cost soooooo much then and is now worth so little. And then there’s vintage Christian Dior fur.

I don’t mean the more common (yet still valuable) 70s and 80s minks, I mean real VINTAGE.

Rare Christian Dior jacket dates to circa 1960. Rich brown broadtail fur with a mink collar, one hook closure at neckline only. Lined in luscious black jacquard fabric that has a bronze changeant sheen, with “DIOR”. Small inside pocket at side seam with classic ruffled edge, and former owner’s name embroidered.

Find more detail pictures and purchase this vintage Christian Dior fur.

Natalie Portman Oscars Dior – When Bad Things Happen To Good Vintage

Natalie Portman in vintage Dior

How refreshing to finally see “vintage” applied correctly to a red carpet frock (see: Julia Roberts, “vintage” Valentino – not). Ms. Natalie Portman in 1950s vintage Christian Dior. It was also refreshing to see a hemline that didn’t cause consternation and concern – coupled with the towering heels that so many wear on the red carpet, the puddling voluminous hemlines are a televised tragedy waiting to happen.

However… I almost wish I hadn’t immediately looked down. This is a classic example of When Bad Things Happen To Good Vintage. This gown is not unusual in its construction: a sheer overlay with an opaque lining. Often such an effect is achieved with silk over a synthetic taffeta. And therein lies the problem. Overzealous – and even the most careful – cleaning frequently leads to shrinkage of the chiffon overlay. The fabric is more delicate and silk shrinks like crazy. The synthetic liner remains, as ever, making itself even more apparent as it now has sometimes inches of exposure.

What happened here? There are several possibilities. The first, Dior pulled an archived gown, cleaned it, and sent it on to Ms. Portman’s stylist. The next, the gown arrived in LA with nary a mishap, and was steamed before the event. Either way, someone shrank the dress. Fortunately, her fiance/husband’s socks weren’t exposed, as well. That would’ve been the ultimate in Red Carpet Matchy-Matchy.

UPDATE: March 8, there is some clarification available. The gown was offered to Ms. Portman’s stylist, gratis (that means “free”, kiddos) by a vintage dealer in NYC. I know who but will not name names here (google away). Made that discovery completely serendipitously when a google search for something I wrote returned something written by said dealer that was, well, rather similar. ‘Nuff said.

1960s Eyeglasses – Gary Oldman Glasses

vintage 1960s eyeglasses

1960s eyeglasses. Gary Oldman style. Which certainly tips its hat to Michael Caine style. How else to describe these vintage 1960s eyeglasses with combination a frame and sleek modern style? You can search online – we’re not alone in our thinking that “Michael Caine” and “bitchin’ vintage eyewear frame” should be synonymous. Few had better style when it came to eyewear. And now Gary Oldman seems to have taken hold of the proverbial spectacular spectacle reins.

Gary Oldman's nod to vintage

Tortoise-look combination frame with modern geometric cut-out chrome temples. A bit of the old, a bit of the new in these 1960s glasses. See more photos and purchase these vintage 1960s eyeglasses.

1950s Beaded Vintage Cashmere Sweater

1950s beaded vintage cashmere sweater

The 1950s sweater still can’t be beat. In a color similar to nougat or French vanilla, this nice weight cashmere is trimly knit. Elaborate copper and steel gray beads are mixed with amber rhinestones up the front placket sides and around the collar in a design that adds to the elongated silhouette of this 1950s beaded vintage cashmere sweater. Ribbed cuffs are long and made to be folded; ribbed deep waist.

Click the link to see more detail images and purchase this 1950s beaded vintage cashmere sweater.

Vintage 1940s Hat – Black & Pink Tilt Hat Huge Bow

vintage 1940s hat

1940s hat of black wool with a vivid hot pink band around the crown and black floral appliques and decorative brass button centers. Very wide matching pink grosgrain ribbon creates a huge flourish on one side, balancing the shape of the tucked top of the crown. A saucy vintage tilt hat- an asymmetric hat to be worn at a tilt. Only label is “adjustable” (not clear how), and maker along with content of felt is imprinted on inner top of crown as is characteristic for vintage wool hats. Has an elastic cord for securing on the head, but might we suggest a hat pin or two, instead.

Please note: this is a hat to rest on the top of your head, not to pull down to fit around it. Think Vivienne Westwood, My Fair Lady, and Victorian streetwalkers – all in the best way, of course. See more lovely images and purchase this vintage tilt hat.

vintage 1940s tilt hat

Vintage Ski Pants – Woodstock Concert Vintage Roffe

vintage Rossignol ski pants - Woodstock

Did you sit in, march on, tie-dye, raise your fist, turn on, blow in the wind, give peace a chance (was all you were saying)? Outta sight. Are you experienced? Were you there? Woodstock.

The Place: Woodstock concert. The Time: 1969.
The enviable object: vintage ski pants featuring the Woodstock concert crowd by Roffe.

Behold, Woodstock fashion as the attendees never would have dreamed. Could you imagine as part of the Woodstock crowd that your visage would end up in one of the most iconographic images in modern history?

Reversible vintage ski pants of solid blue on one side and extraordinarily kakkoii cotton duck screen-printed with the crowd scene at Woodstock on the most important side. Appears that no faces are repeated (we’ve seen a pair of jeans of the same vibe with a repeated pattern). Blue zippers up the full length of outseam.

As shred-ready as these are, they belong in the pantheon of unique vintage textiles and, as such, would be best served box-framed and displayed in your ski chalet. Cross-appeal for vintage, sport, ski, Woodstock, music collectors, and even those seeking vintage Rossignol. Truly one-of-a-kind. Long ago separated from a matching vest, but unlikely to resurface.

The past decade has seen steadily increasing values for vintage textiles that feature a Pop element. A great example is the 1960s paper dress, and specifically the Andy Warhol “Souper Dress”. Featuring Campbell soup cans, this paper ephemera collectible with cross-appeal fetches upwards of $8,000. Really. And there are loads of them floating around on the market.

This is truly a case where one can argue that an item is priceless. See more detail photos and info at this link for these sublime vintage ski pants featuring the Woodstock concert crowd by Roffe.